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NIGEL HACK, FOUNDER OF MADRID & BEYOND, INTERVIEWS TOM KÄLLENE

Tom Källene hails from a small herring-fishing island off the west coast of Sweden and came to live in Spain in 1992.  Since childhood he had lived outside of his native country, mainly in England and Norway, but also with long stays in the U.S. and travels to various countries, due to a restless nature and wanderlust. He worked at a number of jobs, from crewing on fishing boats to working as a ranch hand, in saw and logging mills, to international director of sales, and TV and film production. In Spain, he is best known (amongst many other things) for being part of the commentary team covering the Running of the Bulls in Pamplona for RTVE Spanish National Television and for co-hosting, for the past ten years, several popular radio shows with his good friend Toni Garrido, first at Cadena Ser and later on Radio Nacional.  He is the author of two books. “Sueco se escribe con Ñ” is part biography, part lighthearted take on the cultural differences between Spain and Sweden. In addition, he co-authored a Spanish “road book” with Garrido, “Onderou”. He is currently working on a noir novel set in Madrid.

Tom, thank you very much for taking time out for this interview.

Not a problem, always my pleasure…

OK, let’s get started… Tom, how did your love affair with Spain begin?

I can still remember that first kiss… (laughs).Well, I first came to Spain as a child with my folks, a very common thing, being Swedish, a holiday on Costa del Sol. And I remember liking it. But it was much later in life, living in England, that I developed an interest in all things Spanish, through reading. I decided to visit Madrid and went there in May during the traditional Fiestas of San Isidro… Went to many Bullfights and plenty of Flamenco bars… it left a marked impression and I started going back whenever I could get away.

So, love at first sight?

Very much so. But what really hooked me was the first time I went to San Fermin in Pamplona. I drove up from Madrid, passing through those wonderful landscapes and small villages. In one, they were celebrating their local Fiestas and I was struck by how friendly and inclusive the people were, the colors, sounds, food, how the whole village was involved, young and old, ancient traditions passed down, generation to generation…But not through telling or teaching but living those traditions, in the street. The amazing thing is that although more than two and a half decades has passed since then, it is really quite easy to still find those little village Fiestas now, almost unspoiled.

And Pamplona?

Well, in a way, that was that first kiss I told you about (laughs). It blew me away, as they say and I decided to come back every year to San Fermin from then on, which I did for a long time. I even insisted on having a “San Fermin” clause in any work contract I signed, guaranteeing me two weeks off in July, during the Fiestas.

Tom during one of the years commenting the Running of the Bulls. Source: formulatv.com
Tom during his years of commenting the Running of the Bulls on National TV.   Source: formulatv.com


What makes Pamplona so special?

I´ve been asked that many times and I still can´t come up with a good answer. To say that it´s a big party, which of course it is, falls short of the mark, it´s much more than that. Spain has many popular Fiestas, all great in their own way, but the essence of  “Fiesta” is what happens in Pamplona  for seven crazy days every year. “Fiesta” is unique to Spain, it doesn´t happen anywhere else, it really is a great contribution to world culture. And it´s not a museum or monument, it´s a lived and shared experience.

You used to run with the Bulls, did you not, something very central to the festivities?

Although not obligatory… (laughs).You can go there and just have a good time but, yes, I got  into Bull running and ran for several years ,in Pamplona and  in many other places ,several towns and villages around Spain have them as part of their local celebration. What´s so charming about these celebrations is how open and accessible it all is, it´s very democratic, with the right attitude, you´re in. What made Bull running important for me was being part of a tradition and being close to those magnificent animals. It´s not a competition, it´s living something special , something much bigger than you.

You no longer run. Why?

After some smaller scrapes, I got hit hard in Pamplona in 94, broke my femur, something that put a stop to it. In any case, I was ready to stop, had lost some interest. But since then, I go less to San Fermin. There are so many things to do in Spain…I have been back as a part of the commentary team for Spanish Television, the Bull-running is televised live every morning. I enjoyed that, it´s always fun to share the enthusiasm. And of course I went back two years ago Nigel with your clients… that was another memorable trip!

“What really hooked (about Spain)me was the first time I went to San Fermin in Pamplona. I drove up from Madrid, passing through those wonderful landscapes and small villages. In one, they were celebrating their local Fiestas and I was struck by how friendly and inclusive the people were, the colors, sounds, food, how the whole village was involved, young and old, ancient traditions passed down, generation to generation…But not through telling or teaching but living those traditions, in the street.”

Even though you have traveled widely, and have now lived many years in Spain… your enthusiasm for this country has not waned… what feeds this passion?

I was once involved in filming a documentary about Orson Welles, the American film-maker, and his years living here. Researching the movie, I came across a quote from him. I can´t remember it word perfect now but it was something like “In Spain, there is always an adventure waiting for you around each corner”. I´m sure it was, back in the fifties, when he was here but it´s STILL pretty much true. But I will stop quoting great men and just quote myself, since that´s easier (laughs)…Are you ready? “Spain is the last truly interesting country in Europe”.

Hang on a second there…

Yeah, I know, what about all those other countries, right? (laughs). Look, I´m VERY much a European and a lover of European culture, and I find most places interesting. I lived many years in England and love the British Isles, French and German culture, Italian Opera, Belgian Beer, Dutch…well, you know, whatever it is that the Dutch do…(pause)(laughs) and of course my own Scandinavian roots. I´m also very fond of Asia and most years I try to get to the US. I´ve spent a lot of time there, mainly down South and out West, and I love it. I could shed an emotional tear right here and now for the Southern  Breakfast Buffet at the Peabody Hotel in Memphis or standing, at dawn, at Monument Valley… Anyway, where was I?(laughs)…For me the hardest thing to forgive in a person is a lack of enthusiasm ,whatever you love, love it a lot.

Coming to Spain changed my life, apart from it´s amazing culture, high and low, there is an easy going charm to life in this country. There is also a mystery to Spain that makes it so interesting. As someone said, where there is mystery there is life and life is more full and intense here than in those other countries, in my opinion. The whole undercurrent is vitality, to think and be logical is all very good but the most rewarding is to live, fully and well.

So you have pretty varied tastes…

Sure and that´s another reason why this country is so close to my heart, that it´s so varied, made up of so many parts, some of them contradictory, in a very Spanish way…

“As you know, the greatest compliment you can hear in Andalucia is “Qué Arte! Because “Arte”-art is not something you look at in a museum for someone in Seville or Cadiz, it´s a witty phrase or wordplay, a great pass by the bullfighter, a special moment in Flamenco ,or an everyday situation handled with dignity or sense of humor, again, a kind of “beauty in life”, if you like.”

So…

 (Tom interrupts )Absolutely! (laughs)… Go on ,ask me about Seville…

Seville?

Absolutely love Seville!! (laughs)

Why?

First of all, how it makes you feel, as soon as you get off the Ave speed train and hit the streets. It never fails to  me make feel absurdly good, it puts a silly grin on my face and life has, in an instant, improved a 100%.It must be because of its beauty, Sevilla is stunning, and beauty make everybody happy, I guess. Also, life in Andalucia in general is very different from the rest of Spain, life in the streets, in the bars, at work or at play, is elevated into an art form. As you know, the greatest compliment you can hear in Andalucia is “Qué Arte! Because “Arte”-art is not something you look at in a museum for someone in Seville or Cadiz, it´s a witty phrase or wordplay, a great pass by the bullfighter, a special moment in Flamenco ,or an everyday situation handled with dignity or sense of humor, again, a kind of “beauty in life”, if you like.

Tom during a radio show
Tom during a radio show

Among the various things that you do, you also work for us here at Madrid and Beyond. Why?

I can fit it in with other things I do and because I honestly get a kick out of making people like Spain. Spain has been very good to me and I want it to be good to visitors who have a genuine interest in getting to know the REAL Spain, the experience of Spain and not just a typical summer trip. Also, people have been very good to me on my travels, some stranger in the Japanese countryside who guided me to some out of the way Shinto Shrine or some good ole boy in Alabama, who insisted that I should come and eat his wife’s home-made Grits. And they were very tasty…so it´s perhaps not a karma thing (laughs) but something pretty close to it.

Also because you always pay on time at Madrid & Beyond  (laughter)… and because you said that if I do this interview, you would buy me lunch at “Salvador”… Should we have quick “Fino” first  in the Andaluz bar or a beer at “Viña P”? Interviews always make me so thirsty….

OK, I got the hint… so, let’s go! Again, thank you very much for your time and for giving us such an interesting point of view on Spain

You’re welcome… and thank you for having me here.

A SHORT VISIT TO SAN SEBASTIAN & LA RIOJA

Last April, our colleagues Carla and Hazel headed to Northern Spain for an inspection trip. As usual when going on inspection trips, this was a great opportunity for them to try some of the private tours and special experiences which Madrid & Beyond offer to its clients there. Also, they took the chance to visit some of the properties we usually work with and to even stay in two of them, where they were able to experience firsthand the facilities and services as our treasured clients do.

The first stop on their trip was San Sebastian. The attractive city of San Sebastián (or Donostia) sits on a stunning circular bay known as La Concha. La Concha is in fact just one of four beaches in the city, but La Concha remains the undisputed sovereign. Turning inwards, the highlight of San Sebastián is its old town is situated on the eastern side of the bay, wedged between this and the River Urumea and at the foot or Monte Urgull. This is where many of the sights are, most notably the Plaza de La Constitución and the churches of San Vicente and Santa María.

Carla at Monte Igueldo
Carla at Monte Igueldo

Upon their arrival, they checked into the Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra, the best known four-star hotel in San Sebastián. Situated in front of La Concha beach and beside the historic quarter of the city, one could not ask for a better place to stay in the city. There are six floors and over a hundred rooms, half with views across the sea and the others overlooking the attractive Plaza de Zubieta. All rooms are very spacious, comfortable and tastefully furnished.

 After visiting the hotel and some of the rooms it was time to meet their expert guide and head to the market, where they visited some of the shops and bought the ingredients for their Private Cooking Class in a Gastronomic Society. Basque men gather at sociedades gastronómicas to cook, eat, drink, sing, and socialize. Until recently, women were excluded.  These clubs have nurtured the Basque culinary tradition, resulting in the current proliferation of top restaurants in and around San Sebastian. It is estimated that over 160 sociedades gastronómicas co-exist and Madrid & Beyond can arrange private access to the most prestigious gastronomic society of them all, where the aim is to promote traditional Basque cooking. Classes can be more hands-on or more of a demonstration depending on the client.  The main idea is to give a taste of the way cooking and gastronomy is a way of life here and to give a glimpse into the local culture.  The society brings people together to cook and share ideas.  Honorary members of this particular society include Arzak, Mugaritz, Ferran Adiá, etc.

Hazel showing her skills with the frying pan
Hazel showing her skills with the frying pan

 In the afternoon, they found some time to visit another of the lovely hotels we usually work with in San Sebastian, the Hotel Villa Soro. Located in a residential area, not far from San Sebastian historic center, this hotel was a 19th-century country house and is now the city’s finest boutique property. The hotel has 25 rooms in all, 15 of which are located in the main house whilst the other 10 are situated in what used to be the red brick carriage house. Despite the 19th century ambience, they have not foregone modern conveniences, which make it a very interesting property.

In the early evening, Carla and Hazel joined their expert guide and embarked on a Private Pintxos Tour. To every San Sebastian resident, the terms “pintxos” conjures up images of mouth watering delicacies, from simple eats to highly elaborate haute cuisine creations. Such is the fervor of the residents of San Sebastian for its gastronomy and pintxos, every year the city stages a competition in which all the bars seek to create the tastiest, most original pintxos. Winners proudly proclaim their plaques outside their doors, and many establishments are renowned for one dish above all others. Some of the delicious pintxos they tried were the Rosa de bogavante (lobster rose), the Foie a la plancha (grilled foie) or the carrilleras de ternera (beef cheeks).

Some delicious pintxos...
Some delicious pintxos…

Their second day started early, since they had to meet their private driver/guide and together head to La Rioja wine region. After a 1 hour 30 minute journey they arrived to La Rioja’s traditional wine capital Haro, where they visited one of the historical wineries in Rioja, dating back to the second half of the nineteenth century. Here, they firmly believe in employing traditional methods in all facets of the wine making, including their very own in-house cobblers or barrel makers – a sight to behold! Indeed, tradition oozes from every nook and cranny here… quite unique in every way. Afterwards, they continued to a modern winery in La Rioja Alavesa, where they learnt about the contrasting processes of modern wine making, including the carefully monitored stainless steel tanks whose temperature is controlled by a constant stream of water bathing the exterior of each. They had the chance to be guided through this process and to taste the wines with the owner of the winery, a very personal visit indeed.

Rioja Wine
Rioja Wine

After lunch it was time to do some inspection sites in two of the hotels we work with in this wine region:

  •  The 5* Hotel Marques de Riscal: Designed by renowned architect Frank O. Gehry, the property is his second masterpiece in Spain after driving Bilbao’s urban revival with the Guggenheim Museum. Located in the heart of the Rioja wine region (Elciego), it’s the perfect place for a relaxing break.
  • The Hospederia de los Parajes in Laguardia: A great little hotel, very comfortable.  It boasts an eclectic and funky design and each room has its own character. There is a spa and restaurant, and a little atrium where you can enjoy a drink.
Hotel Marques de Riscal
Hotel Marques de Riscal

In the late afternoon, they headed back to San Sebastian and checked into the Hotel Maria Cristina. This 5-star hotel has gained a deserved reputation as one of the most superior hotels of Spain. Throughout the hotel are Louis-XV and Empire-style furnishings. Facilities and amenities are entirely modern and the highest degree of comfort can be expected. The rooms are fully equipped and overlook either the garden or the Urumea River. Furthermore, a very central location makes it a popular choice for anyone looking for luxury and refinement in this very picturesque city.

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Hotel Maria Cristina

Their third and last day, they visited Getaria, a charming fishing village located just 30 minutes away from San Sebastian. Here Juan Sebastian Elcano was born. Don’t recognise the name? In the age of the exploration in the early 16th century, he became the first man to circumnavigate the globe. Also, for fashion lovers, there’s another “celebrity” who was born here… Cristóbal Balenciaga. He was an early 20th century designer to royalty and other wealthy patrons that started to come to San Sebastian when Queen Maria Cristina began to make it fashionable (she needed the sea air to fight a skin condition which caused the city to become a popular destination).  If you’re interested in fashion, there is a Balenciaga Museum at the top of the hill in town. Apart from this, Getaria is the ideal spot for a delicious seafood lunch in one of its numerous restaurants, with catch coming fresh from the boats anchored in the wharf below.

Port of Getaria
Port of Getaria

And just when you thought it was impossible to fit anymore into such a short visit, the ladies even had time for a couple of bites of tapas and a walk through the picturesque village of Hondarribia on their way to the airport.  Hondarribia is a very short drive from the airport itself, and well worth a visit.  A short 1hr 15min flight later and they were back home in Madrid… both agreeing that with every visit to San Sebastian they fall in love with the city and all the jewels the north has to offer, just that little bit more.

A SHORT ESCAPE TO SEVILLA

Last month I was lucky enough to go on an “inspection trip” to beautiful Sevilla. It wasn’t the first time I’ve visited this lovely city but this time I got to experience some of the private tours and special experiences which we at Madrid & Beyond arrange for our clients there. I stayed in a couple of hotels where our clients sometimes stay thus experiencing first-hand the facilities and services, and visited several others in the short time available.

For those who don’t know Sevilla, the capital of Andalusia is a captivating and beautiful city. It is well known for being a city of flamenco and bulls, the city of Carmen and Don Juan. Its history and culture give rise to pride, tradition, passion and joy. It’s easy to be seduced by its enchanting neighborhoods, with its twisting narrow streets, stunning patios and squares lined with orange trees. The most important monument in Sevilla is its enormous cathedral, the third largest, and the largest Gothic building in the world, featuring the tomb of Christopher Columbus and its 12th-century bell-tower, La Giralda, originally built by the Moors as a minaret.

The Cathedral and its "Giralda"
The Cathedral and its “Giralda”

The day I arrived, I checked into the 4* Hotel Fontecruz Los Seises, a newly renovated hotel of very special design, construction and history. What was once a sixteenth century palace belonging to the Archbishop is now an elegant and modern hotel that closely maintains its links with its past. Inside one can discover a Roman mosaic, an Arab well and sixteenth century columns amongst other attractions. A great plus in the warmer months is its rooftop offering an expansive terrace, and a small swimming pool and wonderful views of historic Sevilla.

After visiting the hotel, it was out to enjoy a Private Bike Tour of Sevilla. After meeting my English speaking guide, we got on our comfortable bikes and started riding through the historic city center. As my guide told me, there’s no better way to visit Sevilla than by bike. The city is flat, full of cycle lanes and usually very sunny… in fact it’s been recognized as the 4th best city in the world for cycling, according to several researches. I can only agree with it… in three hours and with little effort we visited most of the landmarks of the city, including the Barrio de Santa Cruz (Jewish Quarter), the Sevilla University (former tobacco factory), the incredible Maria Luisa Park and the Plaza de España, the riverside and the Triana neighborhood.

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View from the Triana bridge

My second day in Sevilla started with a very special Private Cooking Class. The host for the day picked me up at the hotel and we headed to the Triana Market, where we soaked up the atmosphere and purchased some of the ingredients for the class. After that we headed to our “workplace”, a kitchen located at beautiful penthouse property in the centre of Seville, with large roof terrace. During the preparation of the dishes, I was able to taste some local delicacies together with some drinks. The class was “hands on” and I get involved as much as I could in the preparation of the typical Andalusian dishes. After the class, we enjoyed the fruits of our “hard” labor with a sumptuous meal washed down by some excellent “house” wine…

Kitchen-Terrace
Kitchen and Terrace

After the class I headed to my next stay over, the impressive Hotel Alfonso XIII, which was designed in 1928 to be one of Europe’s most luxurious hotels. After huge renovation work completed in 2012, the hotel is in mint condition and there is no better time to stay here than now. Named after the king who commissioned it in 1928, Hotel Alfonso XIII was built to provide fitting accommodation for the heads of state and high-ranking guests that attended the 1929 Great Ibero-American Exhibition. Today, this famous hotel continues the tradition of luxury and impeccable service for all its distinguished guests. Located a short walk from the Reales Alcázares and Plaza de España, the hotel is the most distinguished address in Sevilla. For those who like to wallow in its comforts, there are also lush gardens, a lovely typical Sevillian inner courtyard with fountain and an sizeable outdoor pool during the summer.

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Alfonso XIII at night

Having been shown the hotel, there was little time to spare before meeting my local guide who took me to a Private Tapas Tour of Sevilla (yes, more food!!!). Tapas is one of Spain’s most famous and enjoyable ways of having a meal. It normally involves visiting a number of bars during the course of an evening, trying local delicacies and sharing each dish with your companions. As my guide says, Sevilla is one of the best cities in Spain for tapas. It is after all, the home of the tapas and has a very large number of bars per inhabitant, offering an amazing range of food. After talking about the food and drinks I would like to try, we head to the first bar, where we tasted some delicious seafood dishes: “tortillitas de camarón” (shrimp omelets)  and “ortiguillas” (battered seaweed) with some beer. Then in the second bar we tried a delicious jamón ibérico and “torreznos” (thick pieces of marinated fried rasher) with some red wine. We finished our tour in a bar where we tried some “secreto ibérico” (pork special cut) and a healthy salad… It was indeed a very food-focused day!

"Ortiguillas"  Source: cosasdecome
“Ortiguillas” Source: cosasdecome

On my last day in Sevilla I took the chance to visit a few other hotels in the Andalusian capital, including:

After a hard day visiting hotels and taking notes about the different types of rooms, the common areas and discussing the added values we get for our clients in each of the properties, I headed to Santa Justa train station and board the AVE (high speed train) to Madrid.

What an intense couple of days but I still felt there was so much more to soak up and enjoy about Sevilla. It’s hard to disagree with those who call it Spain’s most beautiful city; and with such wonderful hosts and guides, it’s a winner every time!